Susi’s guidebook

Susi
Susi’s guidebook

Sightseeing

There are many natural wonders surrounding the town of Esperance. Many are beaches close to town which require only a short 10 minute drive to reach - and for those who are willing to drive an hour or more to get there, wide and beautiful landscapes await which can provide wonderful experiences in wild nature. There are some great experiences to be had inland, too, and I think that these are really under-rated. We have some of the most incredible natural wildflower displays that you'll see anywhere in the world, with this area being most famous for rare orchids. The wildflower season starts in late winter and goes through as long as early summer, with the first weeks of spring being the peak of the season. I encourage visitors to come in the cooler months and to explore more of the inland areas - around the Great Western Woodlands for instance - which are world-famous for their biodiversity and for their pristine condition.
The Great Western Woodlands is a huge tract of mainly undeveloped forest which covers an area larger than England. Along with the Fitzgerald Biosphere which abuts the Woodlands, its famously the largest and the most pristine example of a Mediterranean environment left on the planet. The diversity of plants and animals within the Woodland is astonishing, and can noted even by the untrained eye as stands of different trees and flowers can be seen predominating in different areas on even the most casual little drive through. The closest edge of the forest is about 3 hours' drive north of Esperance (an overnight stay in Norseman at the Railway Hotel is recommended, tell Therese there that Susi sent you!)
Great Western Woodlands
The Great Western Woodlands is a huge tract of mainly undeveloped forest which covers an area larger than England. Along with the Fitzgerald Biosphere which abuts the Woodlands, its famously the largest and the most pristine example of a Mediterranean environment left on the planet. The diversity of plants and animals within the Woodland is astonishing, and can noted even by the untrained eye as stands of different trees and flowers can be seen predominating in different areas on even the most casual little drive through. The closest edge of the forest is about 3 hours' drive north of Esperance (an overnight stay in Norseman at the Railway Hotel is recommended, tell Therese there that Susi sent you!)
The Old Coach road is a great little trip to take when leaving Norseman en route to Esperance. The start of the track is found easily by following the end of Robert St, and it meanders unbusily through the native Woodland area for about 50km before rejoining the highway at Dundas Rocks. Along the way there are points of historic interest marked and many opportunities to experience the local fauna and flora before the mad dash along the highway again. I really recommend this little jaunt as a great way to experience real history and to see something of the Woodlands.
Old Coach Road
Old Coach Road
The Old Coach road is a great little trip to take when leaving Norseman en route to Esperance. The start of the track is found easily by following the end of Robert St, and it meanders unbusily through the native Woodland area for about 50km before rejoining the highway at Dundas Rocks. Along the way there are points of historic interest marked and many opportunities to experience the local fauna and flora before the mad dash along the highway again. I really recommend this little jaunt as a great way to experience real history and to see something of the Woodlands.
The Moir Homestead is an historic site of interest and can only be reached by four wheel drive along a track which sometimes has pockets of deep sand which will quickly bog a 2WD. The homestead is found branching off the gravel road which leads to Quaggi beach, east of Esperance along the road to Ravensthorpe about 100 km's. It's a lovely drive in wildflower season, with the surrounding area often featuring the striking red kangaroo paw in full bloom, along with various other kinds of wildflowers in numerous colours. The homestead itself is of interest as it was a fancy home built in the middle of nowhere; there is still a surviving fig tree and a mulberry, which fruits prolifically. Visitors can respectfully sample the mulberry fruit themselves and they may even find emu feathers under the mulberry tree as the birds like to eat all the fruit they can reach (you may need to climb a bit to find yours, so be careful of the old grandmother tree). Always watch out for snakes and keep an eye on your kids, there are many dangers in the shape of wildlife and rusted metal. If you have an allergy or a fear of bees then this isn't a recommended trip for you as wild bees have colonised parts of the old homestead and the huge fig tree beside it. They'll be ok if you leave them alone and keep a respectful distance, though.
Moir Homestead
The Moir Homestead is an historic site of interest and can only be reached by four wheel drive along a track which sometimes has pockets of deep sand which will quickly bog a 2WD. The homestead is found branching off the gravel road which leads to Quaggi beach, east of Esperance along the road to Ravensthorpe about 100 km's. It's a lovely drive in wildflower season, with the surrounding area often featuring the striking red kangaroo paw in full bloom, along with various other kinds of wildflowers in numerous colours. The homestead itself is of interest as it was a fancy home built in the middle of nowhere; there is still a surviving fig tree and a mulberry, which fruits prolifically. Visitors can respectfully sample the mulberry fruit themselves and they may even find emu feathers under the mulberry tree as the birds like to eat all the fruit they can reach (you may need to climb a bit to find yours, so be careful of the old grandmother tree). Always watch out for snakes and keep an eye on your kids, there are many dangers in the shape of wildlife and rusted metal. If you have an allergy or a fear of bees then this isn't a recommended trip for you as wild bees have colonised parts of the old homestead and the huge fig tree beside it. They'll be ok if you leave them alone and keep a respectful distance, though.
If you have some time then I definitely recommend an overnight stay on Woody Island. Its about an hour and a half boat ride out which you can book through Island Cruises, who also handle the accommodation on the island. The boat ride isn't too rough but don't do what I did last time and go hungover AND sit on the top part of the boat. The island itself is simple and lovely, with different kinds of accommodation ranging from tents to basic huts, all tucked away the bushland which covers a lot of the island. There's a wonderful variety of birdlife and their calls to wake up to in the morning, and some great little tracks to explore the island from. There are good shared kitchen and bathroom/shower facilities, and a cafe/restaurant where you can get a great burger and even a beer. They'll rent you fishing gear and snorkelling gear and there's an underwater playground right there where the boat docks, complete with resident curious stingray and thieving seagull. I've always enjoyed my little trips out to Woody Island, I like how simple everything is: like camping used to be when you were a kid. A lovely little paradise that I can heartily recommend.
Woody Island
If you have some time then I definitely recommend an overnight stay on Woody Island. Its about an hour and a half boat ride out which you can book through Island Cruises, who also handle the accommodation on the island. The boat ride isn't too rough but don't do what I did last time and go hungover AND sit on the top part of the boat. The island itself is simple and lovely, with different kinds of accommodation ranging from tents to basic huts, all tucked away the bushland which covers a lot of the island. There's a wonderful variety of birdlife and their calls to wake up to in the morning, and some great little tracks to explore the island from. There are good shared kitchen and bathroom/shower facilities, and a cafe/restaurant where you can get a great burger and even a beer. They'll rent you fishing gear and snorkelling gear and there's an underwater playground right there where the boat docks, complete with resident curious stingray and thieving seagull. I've always enjoyed my little trips out to Woody Island, I like how simple everything is: like camping used to be when you were a kid. A lovely little paradise that I can heartily recommend.

Town Beaches

These are some the easy to access beaches which are found off the Tourist Loop to the west of town.
This is where the local surfing scene is strong, due to the easy access from town and to the break which can be easily accessed by surfers by a current which draws away from the shore through a natural break in the reef. The beach is the first on the Tourist Loop and is accessed from a good car park down a long flight of sturdy stairs. This is also a good beach for families as when conditions are right a long chain of shallow lagoons form along the shore thanks to the reef which runs parallel and which shelters the area beyond from the roughness of the surf. A great place for toddlers to splash about and for harried parents to lounge in crystal clear waters beside them.
West Beach
This is where the local surfing scene is strong, due to the easy access from town and to the break which can be easily accessed by surfers by a current which draws away from the shore through a natural break in the reef. The beach is the first on the Tourist Loop and is accessed from a good car park down a long flight of sturdy stairs. This is also a good beach for families as when conditions are right a long chain of shallow lagoons form along the shore thanks to the reef which runs parallel and which shelters the area beyond from the roughness of the surf. A great place for toddlers to splash about and for harried parents to lounge in crystal clear waters beside them.
This one is popular with dog walkers, so if you want to meet some locals and their canine friends, this is the beach to hang out on. People who bring their dogs here are generally a responsible and pleasant bunch, so don't worry. It's also a lovely spot to walk around at and the cove created a shallow curve which is often missed by incoming waves, so it's a gentle place to swim. As always around Esperance, be very careful when walking on the rocky headlands. Stay off any dark patches where the algae is often very slippery and always watch the ocean as freak waves can surprise the unwary.
Blue Haven
This one is popular with dog walkers, so if you want to meet some locals and their canine friends, this is the beach to hang out on. People who bring their dogs here are generally a responsible and pleasant bunch, so don't worry. It's also a lovely spot to walk around at and the cove created a shallow curve which is often missed by incoming waves, so it's a gentle place to swim. As always around Esperance, be very careful when walking on the rocky headlands. Stay off any dark patches where the algae is often very slippery and always watch the ocean as freak waves can surprise the unwary.
Fourth Beach goes for quite a distance along the Tourist Loop after Bluehaven. It is well serviced with a number of car parks, and its a popular beach for walkers as you can go quite some distance before you hit the headland in either direction. This beach is also popular with surfers but it is quite wild, full of rips and is for the most part unpatrolled; I don't so much "swim" there myself as just "get wet and get out again". Still lovely to do on a hot afternoon.
Fourth Beach
Fourth Beach goes for quite a distance along the Tourist Loop after Bluehaven. It is well serviced with a number of car parks, and its a popular beach for walkers as you can go quite some distance before you hit the headland in either direction. This beach is also popular with surfers but it is quite wild, full of rips and is for the most part unpatrolled; I don't so much "swim" there myself as just "get wet and get out again". Still lovely to do on a hot afternoon.
Twilight Cove is one of Esperance's most iconic town beaches, and for a few good reasons. Firstly its quite picturesque, thanks to the interesting rock that sits in the water a few metres from shore. This is a popular swimming destination for the brave youth of the community, who can be seen sometimes leaping off from the top (this is not a recommended activity, by the way. First of all: sharks. And secondly: there have been serious injuries resulting from people doing this in the past). Twilight is also a great beach because there is usually plenty of parking (although for the first time ever in the summer of 2018, I actually saw it totally full and I got literally the last spot, so I wouldn't leave it too late to get there in the height of summer) and its a family-friendly beach. There is plenty of space to spread out so that your ball games won't annoy other people, there is a section in the curve of the bay which is popular with boogie board riders of all ages, and in the far corner is a gentle place in the lee of the headland which is good for little children to swim. Plenty of locals and visitors like this beach, so you get a great mix. There's decent snorkelling around the headland too but always be careful, this is a wild ocean despite its tame appearance.
Twilight Cove
Twilight Cove is one of Esperance's most iconic town beaches, and for a few good reasons. Firstly its quite picturesque, thanks to the interesting rock that sits in the water a few metres from shore. This is a popular swimming destination for the brave youth of the community, who can be seen sometimes leaping off from the top (this is not a recommended activity, by the way. First of all: sharks. And secondly: there have been serious injuries resulting from people doing this in the past). Twilight is also a great beach because there is usually plenty of parking (although for the first time ever in the summer of 2018, I actually saw it totally full and I got literally the last spot, so I wouldn't leave it too late to get there in the height of summer) and its a family-friendly beach. There is plenty of space to spread out so that your ball games won't annoy other people, there is a section in the curve of the bay which is popular with boogie board riders of all ages, and in the far corner is a gentle place in the lee of the headland which is good for little children to swim. Plenty of locals and visitors like this beach, so you get a great mix. There's decent snorkelling around the headland too but always be careful, this is a wild ocean despite its tame appearance.

Cape Le Grand National Park

The entire reserve features wild and beautiful coastline with easy access to amazing beaches. This paradise is relatively under-developed and in pristine condition. About 1 hour's drive (and 1 hour back again) from the town of Esperance.
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Cape Le Grand National Park
Cape Le Grand Road
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The entire reserve features wild and beautiful coastline with easy access to amazing beaches. This paradise is relatively under-developed and in pristine condition. About 1 hour's drive (and 1 hour back again) from the town of Esperance.
This beach is perhaps the most iconic one in the area. The sand is pure white and so fine that it squeaks underfoot, and the water is crystal clear. Kangaroos are often seen on the beach here, and there is limited camping available with great shared facilities such as bathrooms and kitchens. This beach was once rated in National Geographic's Top Ten beaches in the world.
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Lucky Bay
Lucky Bay Road
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This beach is perhaps the most iconic one in the area. The sand is pure white and so fine that it squeaks underfoot, and the water is crystal clear. Kangaroos are often seen on the beach here, and there is limited camping available with great shared facilities such as bathrooms and kitchens. This beach was once rated in National Geographic's Top Ten beaches in the world.
It's a decent walk, scary enough to make you feel as though you did something amazing without being actually too scary in reality. There is a steep bit which to me seemed vertical when I first did the climb - I have a fear of heights and it really freaked me out, but coming down again I realised that it was much easier than I thought and I was very confident. The view from the top is great!
Frenchman's Peak
It's a decent walk, scary enough to make you feel as though you did something amazing without being actually too scary in reality. There is a steep bit which to me seemed vertical when I first did the climb - I have a fear of heights and it really freaked me out, but coming down again I realised that it was much easier than I thought and I was very confident. The view from the top is great!
This is one of my personal favourites. I find it usually much less crowded than Hellfire or Lucky Bay, and the swimming conditions are often ideal. I love to boogie board but am scared of sharks and rips, so the lovely even break relatively close to shore is perfect for me to have hours of fun in.
Thistle Cove
This is one of my personal favourites. I find it usually much less crowded than Hellfire or Lucky Bay, and the swimming conditions are often ideal. I love to boogie board but am scared of sharks and rips, so the lovely even break relatively close to shore is perfect for me to have hours of fun in.
This beach is quickly becoming a big favourite with the locals, and people from town regularly host birthdays there on weekends in summer. The barbecue and kitchen facilities here are amazing and big groups can just get in and cook together and feed a crowd of kids. The beach really beautiful and is easily accessed from the common area; there are also drop toilets tucked away discretely. The beach is named "Hellfire" after a wreck which is just off the coast near there.
Hellfire Bay
This beach is quickly becoming a big favourite with the locals, and people from town regularly host birthdays there on weekends in summer. The barbecue and kitchen facilities here are amazing and big groups can just get in and cook together and feed a crowd of kids. The beach really beautiful and is easily accessed from the common area; there are also drop toilets tucked away discretely. The beach is named "Hellfire" after a wreck which is just off the coast near there.